How to fix sunken or uneven pavers

Sunken, shifting, or uneven pavers are more than an eyesore—they are serious trip hazards caused by sub-base washout, invasive tree roots, or poor initial compaction. This trade guide details how to lift, re-bed, level, and secure damaged paving sections so your surface remains dead-flat and free-dr

Quick answer

To fix sunken pavers, pry out the affected units, clear the disturbed bedding layer, and compact the underlying roadbase using a mechanical plate compactor. Re-bed the pavers on 20mm to 30mm of coarse washed sand compliant with AS 3727.1:2016, then sweep jointing sand across the dry surface before final compaction.

Skill level
Intermediate
Time
3–6 hours (depending on the affected area size)
Trade
Earthmoving & Landscaping
Updated
31 October 2026

Tools you will need

  • Rubber mallet
  • Pointing trowel and margin trowel
  • Spirit level
  • Aluminium screed rail
  • Hand tamper
  • Stiff
  • PPE: Safety glasses

🏗️ Complete Trade Guide: How to Fix Sunken or Uneven Pavers

Why do outdoor pavers sink and become uneven?

Sunken, shifting, or uneven pavers are more than an eyesore—they are serious trip hazards caused by sub-base washout, invasive tree roots, or poor initial compaction. This trade guide details how to lift, re-bed, level, and secure damaged paving sections so your surface remains dead-flat and free-draining. With standard hand tools and proper compaction, you can achieve a professional-grade repair that lasts for decades.

Skill Level

Intermediate — Estimated time: 3–6 hours (depending on the affected area size)

What tools and equipment are required to fix sunken pavers?

🔧 Equipment Required

Rubber mallet (white non-marking head preferred)
2x flathead screwdrivers, thin pry bars, or dedicated paver extractors
Pointing trowel and margin trowel
Spirit level (minimum 900mm to 1200mm) or a string line
Aluminium screed rail (or straight 2.4m timber straight edge)
Hand tamper (minimum 200mm x 200mm steel base) or vibratory plate compactor (hire a 60kg–80kg unit for areas over 5m²)
Stiff-bristle outdoor broom
PPE: Safety glasses (AS/NZS 1337.1), heavy-duty gloves, Class 5 ear protection (if using a plate compactor), steel-cap work boots (AS/NZS 2210.3), and dust mask (P2 rated for silica dust)

What bedding materials and aggregates should you use to repair pavers?

Coarse bedding sand (washed river sand or concrete sand), typically 20–40kg per square metre depending on depth
Road base / Crushed rock (Class 2 roadbase or 20mm aggregate minus) if sub-base has settled or eroded
Polymeric sand or clean, kiln-dried paving sand (for refilling joints)
Garden weed mat / non-woven geotextile fabric (optional, recommended for sand-migration issues)

What safety regulations apply when lifting and repairing paved surfaces?

⚠️ Safety — Always contact 📞 Dial Before You Dig (1100) before any deep excavation work if your paving repair is near underground service trenches (water, gas, electrical).
Crystalline Silica Awareness: Dry sweeping sand or cutting masonry produces harmful respirable silica dust (AS 3798 compliance). Always wear a P2 respirator and wet down dust when feasible.
Safe Lifting: Lift pavers with a straight back and bent knees. Repetitive handling of heavy concrete or clay units quickly causes strain.

Step-by-Step Guide

1️⃣ Lift the Damaged Pavers

Locate the perimeter of the sunken section and begin extraction. Insert two flathead screwdrivers or a paver extractor tool into the joint gaps on opposite sides of a central sunken paver. Gently wiggle the unit free without levering too hard against adjacent good pavers, which can chip the edges. Once the first "key" paver is out, pry up the remaining sunken pavers by hand and stack them systematically nearby. Remove at least one to two rows of undisturbed, level pavers past the sunken zone to ensure a smooth transition.

2️⃣ Investigate the Failure Point

Inspect the exposed base to pinpoint the underlying cause.

If tree roots have heaved the base, prune back non-structural roots cleanly, ensuring compliance with local council tree preservation orders.
If soil washout has caused a dip, check nearby downpipes, garden edge runoff, or cracked drainage channels. Rectify the water issue first, or the pavers will sink again.

3️⃣ Excavate and Repair the Sub-Base

Scrape away the old, contaminated bedding sand down to the solid sub-base. The sub-base beneath standard pedestrian footpaths must consist of at least 75mm to 100mm of compacted roadbase (driveways require 150mm+). If the roadbase has sunk, shovel in fresh Class 2 roadbase to bring it back to a uniform depth of 65mm below finished surface height (assuming a 30mm paver + 35mm sand bed). Compact the base thoroughly using a mechanical plate compactor or hand tamper in 50mm layers, dampening the aggregate slightly with water to achieve optimum compaction.

4️⃣ Screed the New Bedding Sand

Spread clean, coarse bedding sand over the repaired roadbase. Do not use brickies loam or fine sand, as it washes away easily. Lay two parallel screed guide rails (such as 25mm electrical conduit or steel box tubing) onto the compacted roadbase. Pull an aluminium screed straight across the guides to strike off an even, uniform layer of sand at precisely 30mm depth.

💡 Add an extra 5mm to 8mm surcharge allowance to the sand height—this compensates for settlement once the pavers are tamped down into place.

5️⃣ Reinstall the Pavers

Lay the pavers back into their original pattern, dropping them straight down onto the fresh sand rather than sliding them across the bed. Maintain a consistent 2mm to 4mm joint gap between pavers to prevent edge spalling and allow joint sand ingress (in accordance with CMAA paver guidelines). Use a string line stretched across the untouched paving rows to ensure straight joint lines.

6️⃣ Consolidate and Set Paver Levels

Place a flat timber offcut (such as a piece of 90x45mm pine) across several pavers and hit the wood firmly with your rubber mallet to drive the pavers down to match the height of the existing run. For large repair areas (over 5m²), run a hire plate compactor fitted with a polyurethane rubber mat over the dry pavers to bed them into the sand evenly without cracking surface corners. Check your work frequently with a 1200mm spirit level to verify fall (aim for a 1:50 to 1:100 cross-fall away from the house slab).

7️⃣ Sweep Joint Sand and Lock the Surface

Ensure the paving surface is completely dry. Pour kiln-dried paving sand or polymeric sand liberally across the surface. Sweep the sand back and forth across the gaps using a stiff-bristle outdoor broom until the joints are completely full. If using polymeric sand, follow manufacturer instructions to mist down with water using a garden hose to activate the binding polymer, locking the joint solid against ants and weed growth.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

1.Using Mortar or Loam Underneath: Using fine mortar sand or fatty brickies loam instead of coarse washed concrete sand causes water trapping, efflorescence, and premature washout.
2.Re-bedding Without Sub-Base Repair: Simply dumping extra sand into a sunken hollow without re-compacting the underlying roadbase guarantees the pavers will sink back down within months. Sand depth should never exceed 35mm.
3.Skipping Edge Restraints: Forgetting to install or repair the outer concrete haunching or edging allows pavers to drift laterally, opening wide joint gaps that invite weed growth and washout.
4.Butt-Jointing Pavers Without Gaps: Laying pavers hard against each other without the 2mm–4mm joint allowance causes pavers to chip and fracture under thermal movement or loading.

Pro Tips

💡 Mark Before Lifting: Use a piece of chalk to number the tops of perimeter pavers before lifting them. Replacing them in their original positions eliminates the need for awkward cuts and edge adjustments.
💡 Sub-Base Compaction Rule: Always lightly spray roadbase with a fine hose mist before tamping; the right moisture content lubricates aggregate particles to achieve maximum compaction density.
💡 Edge Haunching Trick: If repairing an unsupported edge, trowel a 45-degree sand-and-cement haunch (3:1 mix) against the bottom half of the perimeter pavers. Keep it recessed 25mm below the surface so turf or mulch conceals it neatly.

Recommended Tools

🔧 Recommended Equipment

Wacker Neuson VP1135A (or equivalent 60kg–80kg Single-Direction Plate Compactor): Essential for hire on areas over 5m² to achieve deep compaction and level bedding (hire: ~$75/day).
Stabila 1200mm Heavy-Duty Box Beam Spirit Level: Trade-standard accuracy to match falls, verify cross-slopes, and eliminate uneven edges.
Marshalltown 13mm Pointing Trowel: The ideal tool for hooking out tight paving joints and scraping clean bedding margins along edges.
Mastercraft or Cyclone 200mm Heavy Cast Iron Hand Tamper: Cost-effective manual compaction tool for confined suburban patio and pathway repairs.
(Note: For contractors taking on major site reprofiling or civil excavation equipment purchases valued over $20,000, consider equipment finance via Local Knowledge Finance).

Frequently asked questions

What is involved in fix sunken or uneven pavers?
Sunken, shifting, or uneven pavers are more than an eyesore—they are serious trip hazards caused by sub-base washout, invasive tree roots, or poor initial compaction. This trade guide details how to lift, re-bed, level, and secure damaged paving sections so your surface remains dead-flat and free-dr
What skill level do I need for fix sunken or uneven pavers?
Intermediate — Estimated time: 3–6 hours (depending on the affected area size)
What are common mistakes when fix sunken or uneven pavers?
1. Using Mortar or Loam Underneath: Using fine mortar sand or fatty brickies loam instead of coarse washed concrete sand causes water trapping, efflorescence, and premature washout. 2. Re-bedding Without Sub-Base Repair: Simply dumping extra sand into a sunken hollow without re-compacting the underlying roadbase guarantees the pavers will sink back down within months. Sand depth should nev
What tools do I need for fix sunken or uneven pavers?
This guide includes a comprehensive tools list. Key earthmoving & landscaping tools are detailed in the Tools Required section.
What is the Australian standard for paving bedding sand thickness?
The Australian standard for residential paving is AS 3727.1:2016, which stipulates a finished bedding sand depth of 20mm to 30mm. Exceeding 30mm causes uneven settlement under pedestrian traffic. Bedding layers must consist of well-graded, coarse-washed concrete sand conforming to AS 2758.1 rather than fine brickies loam, which traps moisture and causes sub-base degradation.
Can you use brickies loam or mortar sand to fix sunken pavers?
No, brickies loam and soft mortar sands are unsuitable for bedding paving units because they contain high clay fractions. Under moisture exposure, clay-rich sands turn slurry-like, wash out into base layers, and trigger efflorescence. Australian trade guidelines require sharp, coarse-washed river sand or manufactured concrete sand to guarantee lateral shear strength and continuous subsurface drainage.
How deep should the roadbase be under residential pavers?
Under AS 3727.1:2016, residential pedestrian paving requires a minimum compacted sub-base depth of 75mm to 100mm using Class 2 crushed rock or 20mm roadbase. For driveway applications subject to light vehicular loads, the compacted sub-base thickness must be at least 150mm. Compaction must be executed in layers no thicker than 50mm using mechanical vibration.
Do you need to notify Before You Dig Australia for paving repairs?
Yes, tradies must submit an enquiry through Before You Dig Australia (1100) before undertaking excavation work deeper than 150mm near property boundaries or service alignments. Stripping failed sub-bases or rectifying invasive tree roots can expose buried electrical conduits, telecommunication lines, or shallow stormwater infrastructure. Utility plan confirmation protects workers and prevents liability under state occupational health and safety acts.

Written by Digger, the Earthmoving & Landscaping specialist at WA.Tools.